From the first moment I saw pictures of the Himba, I fell in love with these beautiful nomadic people of Namibia.

I landed in Windhoek without any idea how to get from there to the border of Angola where the Himba lived, over 1000 miles away. A German-Namibian with a big belly and dark sunglasses was hustling tourists at the airport. After some fruitless haggling he finally growled “Okay, what is it you really want?”. I said: “I want to meet the Himba but I only have five days. I don’t want to meet them as a regular tourist though. I want to meet their elders and play my musical instruments for them.”
He looked at me suspiciously, then said: “You know what, I don’t like Windhoek. I feel like going to Kaokoland. I’ll drive you!”
The next day I was on my way, with Armin driving a four by four packed with food, corn meal and tobacco. After an arduous drive on dusty gravel we set up camp at some hot springs. Swallows swooped and weaverbirds trilled while we bathed in the pools. Ibrahim of the Herero tribe joined us as a translator.
We travelled through the city of Opuwo, which was the epitome of the clash of contemporary and tribal cultures. The influence of white sugar and alcohol were depressingly apparent. Whilst the Himba women keep their dignity by wearing their traditional red ochre, metal jewellery and goat skin skirts, many of the Himba men have succumbed to the synthetic lure of western attire. It is only a matter of time before this last authentic tribe of southern Africa is gone forever.

The Water Crisis

A huge dam is already being built in the Congo, with the capacity to feed the whole continent of Africa with electricity. Most electricity at this stage is fed to Namibia from South Africa, with some energy generated in the country itself.
If we declare old ruins and buildings part of our World Heritage, why not our last authentic tribal people of the earth?
Though contact with the western world might degrade the Himba, respectful, interested and conscious tourism might prove to be their only ally in the preservation of their culture. The government does not seem to care about the living treasure these people represent.
A fenced circular settlement of cob style clay huts, with cattle and goats in the centre was bathed in last golden rays of sun when we arrived. The chief offered us a place to set up camp not far from the entrance to his kraal. The Himba live in family clans of around twenty people.

We set up camp and started the fire while the full moon rose. The scent of simmering beetroot, sweet potatoes and butternut drew the clan to us. We shared the food and after all bellies were full, we shared the music. First I played the didgeridoo and then the Native American flute, which they loved. They wanted to hear it again and again. Then they clapped their hands in a special rhythm and sang their magical songs into the moonlit night.
I felt like I was witnessing a vanishing race.
The following morning I brought organic seeds of different kinds to the women working in the gardens and they understood when I played my flute to awaken the seeds. The simplicity and beauty with which they lived touched my heart. The men herd the cattle while the woman work in the garden and care for the children. Once upon a time our ancestors must have lived in such harmony with one another and with nature.
I interviewed the headman and asked what the most important thing was for them and how we could be of help. He took us to the sacred fire through which they communicate with the creator and the ancestors who walked the land before them. He told me that what they really needed was water, but not in the form of a dam that would destroy his people. We went to dowse for water and found a supply close to their kraal, 11 metres deep. We offered to gather financial resources from friends and sponsors who want to contribute to the survival of the Himba through the building of wells for permanent water. When we left we were sent away with these words:
“This land is sacred. Please be gentle with this, our heritage.”
Maybe prayers helped. But prayers have to be lived in order to work and to make a difference.

For details on how you can support the Himba project please visit www.kailash-kokopelli.com